Hello, I have a nine year old AQHA mare and I'm starting to realize a couple of problems that we've been having together. We barrel race a lot and compete generally once every two to three weeks. She's a really good competitor and is generally always quiet. But, now that we are reaching quicker speeds, I am starting to search for things that I could improve on. The first thing I wanted to work on is how tense she always is. And she's not only tense while barrel racing. She is always tense and hyper and always was since I've purchased her two years ago. I have checked the basic things such as tack fitting and I finally found two bits that she is comfortable in (loose-ring snaffle, chain bit) but if she could relax while barrel racing, she'll be able to stretch out more and be overall a smoother runner. I have tried to find help just last summer. I can now get her to relax at the walk where she can walk really loose with her head level to the ground. But the moment I ask for a trot, her head pops up and she tenses up again. This is starting to be a big problem for me and I would like to know if you would have any suggestions in mind that I could try so that my horse can find relaxation. I take her out on many easy trail rides, and sometimes I just take her out for a walk. I always like to switch things up so that she does not get bored of barrel racing, which I believe that she isn't, and with all the exercises I've done, nothing seems to be working. Any suggestions? Thank you so much for your time.
-Rachel
Hello Rachel,
My suggestion is to have the patience to not barrel race her for a while and to just work with her on basic training at all three gaits. Discovering the source of her tenseness is important, and then re schooling her so that she becomes more accepting of what you want to do with her.
Our horse's comfort in not being afraid and not disliking what we would like them to do should be more important than anything to us.
A chain bit is actually a severe bit. You should be able to control and guide her with your seat, legs, and finally your hands. If there is any pain involved in her racing, this would be enough to make her tense. It is difficult when racing to make sure that your seat is independent and that you are never pulling on her to cause her pain in her mouth.
You may well want to think about re schooling her in a ring with a Bit less Bridle. If you are controlling your horse through discomfort in their mouth, then you will not see progress.
You need to start to do slow work with her. You need to think about how to use your body when you ride to turn your horse. Your "center" or pelvis will turn in the direction you want your horse to go and your legs and hands GENTLY guide and agree.
I know since you are concerned that you are gentle with your horse, but unfortunately in the world of games, you are subjected to seeing horses jerked and yanked and treated roughly and so you have to be an individual while seeking better responses from your horse.
Train your horse for a while as if you were going to ride in a western pattern class. School her until she responds to your gentle aids and can calmly execute circles and half circles and transitions without becoming tense. It takes a good rider to do this. As you know from watching some of the riders at games, some are BAD riders and trainers, riding from pulling on their horses and causing them discomfort.
Correctly trained open jumpers will go into a ring calmly, canter collected on soft contact, and jump the course(at speed, if it is timed). Then they will calmly come back to their riders and quietly leave the ring. Game horses (mine did this and so do my students), are capable of doing the same thing but they need the initial training to be balanced.
You can put yourself in your horse's place. How would you like it if you were already nervous and then were galloped into a ring, turned sharply so you were afraid of losing your balance, and at times having your mouth hurt? You would stay tense and afraid. Work with your horse until the circles and changes of lead are easier, and maybe ride at least with a much milder bit.
Please feel free to ask EXPERTS again or email me if you would like more ideas. Good luck!
I believe there is an article or two on my website that may help you.
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Green Broke Mare
Hey, I have a question regarding my four year old green broke mare and I was hoping you could help me out. I am training my mare, Epona, to ride, ground manners, etc...and I'm currently lost on how to continue. She knows how to walk, jog, lope, neck rein, leg pressure and circles. What other essential things do you think I could teach her? Also how do you teach a young horse collection, cause this mare definitely has none! Thank you for your time and I hope you can help me on this.
-Marianne
Hello Marianne,
The basic thing we need to think about when schooling and training our horses, whatever age, is how to make certain that we are strengthening them physically (and mentally) to be able to do the tasks that we desire without doing harm to the horse.
Frankly, as you probably know, riding can be difficult for them in keeping their backs and bodies free from stress and problems. That is one reason all riders need knowledgeable people on the ground helping them with THEIR riding no matter what their level may be...that our bodies are riding our horses correctly.
When we are riding our horse we are either strengthening them or breaking them done...period. Not realizing this has caused so many horses to become lame way before their time.You need to consider the QUALITY of the things you have already taught her first.Are you able to bend her correctly in whatever you are doing? Are her circles in a true "C" shape, with the hind legs following the track of her front legs?
Are you trying some lateral work with her? At the walk a lot of bend, change of bend, counter bend, leading to leg yields, slight shoulder- ins,, eventually haunches in. Done correctly, these movements just strengthen any horse, western or English.
Collection (correct collection) will depend on her ability to load her haunches with more of her (and your weight). She needs to be supple longitudinally and laterally. You need to work on her transitions.....walk to jog, forward to jog, lope to jog, walk to halt, etc. If you give her the aids to do this and help her learn to do these from Back to Front, with your seat and legs and THEN hands initiating the transitions, then she will be able to collect without any force.
Do not be influenced if you see other people "collecting" their horse by yanking on their mouths, and using devices, tie-downs, spurs, etc. A spur is for a trained horse and rider to give exact aids...tie-downs mean the RIDER is not able to ride their horse correctly..not that the horse is lacking in ability.
If you train with the basic, correct fundamentals, it will carry through when you specialize your requirements for the horse, whether it be western pleasure, hunt seat, or dressage. If you have further questions, (which, really, you hopefully will, ) you can email me at EXPERTS or at SummersDressage@aol.com.
When people realize how a horse needs TIME to accept the weight of a rider and the demands of a rider, hopefully these much-touted 2 and 3 day COWBOY CHALLENGES will cease. Great fun for the riders and spectators.....eventual trouble in so many ways for the unfortunate horses being used to promote the ego of "trainers". It is like my telling you that you need to do certain gymnastic exercises by tomorrow WITH a back pack on you and if you do not you will be run around, and physically and mentally challenged until you either do it and maybe ruin your body for years to come, or just break down.
-Marianne
Hello Marianne,
The basic thing we need to think about when schooling and training our horses, whatever age, is how to make certain that we are strengthening them physically (and mentally) to be able to do the tasks that we desire without doing harm to the horse.
Frankly, as you probably know, riding can be difficult for them in keeping their backs and bodies free from stress and problems. That is one reason all riders need knowledgeable people on the ground helping them with THEIR riding no matter what their level may be...that our bodies are riding our horses correctly.
When we are riding our horse we are either strengthening them or breaking them done...period. Not realizing this has caused so many horses to become lame way before their time.You need to consider the QUALITY of the things you have already taught her first.Are you able to bend her correctly in whatever you are doing? Are her circles in a true "C" shape, with the hind legs following the track of her front legs?
Are you trying some lateral work with her? At the walk a lot of bend, change of bend, counter bend, leading to leg yields, slight shoulder- ins,, eventually haunches in. Done correctly, these movements just strengthen any horse, western or English.
Collection (correct collection) will depend on her ability to load her haunches with more of her (and your weight). She needs to be supple longitudinally and laterally. You need to work on her transitions.....walk to jog, forward to jog, lope to jog, walk to halt, etc. If you give her the aids to do this and help her learn to do these from Back to Front, with your seat and legs and THEN hands initiating the transitions, then she will be able to collect without any force.
Do not be influenced if you see other people "collecting" their horse by yanking on their mouths, and using devices, tie-downs, spurs, etc. A spur is for a trained horse and rider to give exact aids...tie-downs mean the RIDER is not able to ride their horse correctly..not that the horse is lacking in ability.
If you train with the basic, correct fundamentals, it will carry through when you specialize your requirements for the horse, whether it be western pleasure, hunt seat, or dressage. If you have further questions, (which, really, you hopefully will, ) you can email me at EXPERTS or at SummersDressage@aol.com.
When people realize how a horse needs TIME to accept the weight of a rider and the demands of a rider, hopefully these much-touted 2 and 3 day COWBOY CHALLENGES will cease. Great fun for the riders and spectators.....eventual trouble in so many ways for the unfortunate horses being used to promote the ego of "trainers". It is like my telling you that you need to do certain gymnastic exercises by tomorrow WITH a back pack on you and if you do not you will be run around, and physically and mentally challenged until you either do it and maybe ruin your body for years to come, or just break down.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Horse With Bad Habits
I have a twelve year old fox trotter gelding and he has many bad habits that I can't seem to break. First when you try to get on him he starts to walk away as soon as you put the rains over his head, he also will not turn very well and tends to try and walk sideways trying to get to were he wants to go. Most of the time you cannot get him away from his pasture buddy without him going crazy. When I put him on a lead rope he will not walk beside me or behind me, instead he head buts me and tries to get in front of me. He also doesn't like to stop at anytime, whether he is on a lead rope or I'm ridding him. He also likes to paw at the ground when I'm leading him which has caused him to break two of my toes twice. he also likes to paw at the ground when I am riding him too. But he doesn't like to be rode without other horses around. And he also tends to be very jumpy, you cannot move your hand around his face or move a rope to fast around him or he will run away. Do you have any suggestion to help me fix these problems? if so I would truly appreciate your help.
-Brittany
Hello Brittany,
There are many concerns that you have to deal with. First of all, realize that your horse is not being difficult "on purpose"-he just does not know any better. You do not mention how long you have had him or where he came from, but he has either had improper handling or just not focused
training that allowed him to understand what he is SUPPOSED to be doing.
There are many good books to read that will help you...Anthony Crosley has one...."The First Four Years",...and Linda Tellington Jones method of T.E.A.M. would prove useful. My web site, www.MitziSummers.com, has some articles that may help.
You have to start from the beginning with him...retraining, and start with ground work.The first thing you need to do is to teach him correct leading and go on from there. Using the wand that T.E.A.M. advocates,(as an extension of your arm), will help when you are leading him. I would also teach him to lunge, and some quiet, focused light round pen work...NOT chasing him around,will help both of you to relate to each other. You will need to really read and research, and be careful. There are so many marketing techniques out there, and some are not tailored to the horse as an individual.
When you do mount him, I have always found the easiest way is at first to just lead him up to the mounting block, offer him a treat, and lead him away. Do it again when he stands for a bit, then finally when he stands for mounting.Then you only need to do this every once in a while. I have seen "natural" techniques that incorporate chasing the horse around the block.....I do not think that this makes any sense to most horses. You want to train your horse in the clearest and kindest way possible.
My email is Summersdressage@aol.com. I would like to know more about your skills and experience so I can help you more. Many times in riding we confuse our horses, as our aids are not clear to them.
You need also to desensitize your horse. You need to do this training away from other horses. As he learns to trust you and understand what you want him to do, ,he will be more confident in leaving his herd. Remember that a horse is a prey animal and his herd represents safety to him. I really think you should look for an experienced, intelligent, thoughtful professional horse trainer to help you, but this can be difficult. I admit I have much to learn, but 90 per cent of my business is in helping people retrain their horses that a "professional" has not been successful with. The first thing is to make certain that they are thoughtful, consider the horse as an individual, sentient being, and that whatever they are advocating makes sense to you and the horse. If it looks like it is cruel or forced, it probably is.
I will be glad to help you with more specific answers to each problem as it comes up. You could write to EXPERTS again. Just be sure to first start with ground work, leading and longing. If your Fox Trotter is gated you have to be really careful with any round penning or longing as small circles are difficult for him. Also, be certain that you are using your hands and body correctly when turning him when you are riding. An excellent book for you also to read is CENTERED RIDING by Sally Swift.
-Brittany
Hello Brittany,
There are many concerns that you have to deal with. First of all, realize that your horse is not being difficult "on purpose"-he just does not know any better. You do not mention how long you have had him or where he came from, but he has either had improper handling or just not focused
training that allowed him to understand what he is SUPPOSED to be doing.
There are many good books to read that will help you...Anthony Crosley has one...."The First Four Years",...and Linda Tellington Jones method of T.E.A.M. would prove useful. My web site, www.MitziSummers.com, has some articles that may help.
You have to start from the beginning with him...retraining, and start with ground work.The first thing you need to do is to teach him correct leading and go on from there. Using the wand that T.E.A.M. advocates,(as an extension of your arm), will help when you are leading him. I would also teach him to lunge, and some quiet, focused light round pen work...NOT chasing him around,will help both of you to relate to each other. You will need to really read and research, and be careful. There are so many marketing techniques out there, and some are not tailored to the horse as an individual.
When you do mount him, I have always found the easiest way is at first to just lead him up to the mounting block, offer him a treat, and lead him away. Do it again when he stands for a bit, then finally when he stands for mounting.Then you only need to do this every once in a while. I have seen "natural" techniques that incorporate chasing the horse around the block.....I do not think that this makes any sense to most horses. You want to train your horse in the clearest and kindest way possible.
My email is Summersdressage@aol.com. I would like to know more about your skills and experience so I can help you more. Many times in riding we confuse our horses, as our aids are not clear to them.
You need also to desensitize your horse. You need to do this training away from other horses. As he learns to trust you and understand what you want him to do, ,he will be more confident in leaving his herd. Remember that a horse is a prey animal and his herd represents safety to him. I really think you should look for an experienced, intelligent, thoughtful professional horse trainer to help you, but this can be difficult. I admit I have much to learn, but 90 per cent of my business is in helping people retrain their horses that a "professional" has not been successful with. The first thing is to make certain that they are thoughtful, consider the horse as an individual, sentient being, and that whatever they are advocating makes sense to you and the horse. If it looks like it is cruel or forced, it probably is.
I will be glad to help you with more specific answers to each problem as it comes up. You could write to EXPERTS again. Just be sure to first start with ground work, leading and longing. If your Fox Trotter is gated you have to be really careful with any round penning or longing as small circles are difficult for him. Also, be certain that you are using your hands and body correctly when turning him when you are riding. An excellent book for you also to read is CENTERED RIDING by Sally Swift.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
RESCHOOLING YOUR WESTERN HORSE FOR DRESSAGE (And Vice Versa)
Spring is on its way-really it is, and with the advent of good weather riders again get motivated to improve their riding and their horses, and may well be inspired to delve into
riding disciplines that they have observed, but with which they have not gotten really involved. I have noticed that by watching the World Games held in Kentucky this year, more and more horseman have gotten interested in dressage for their horses. Of course, only the highest levels were demonstrated, but the beauty that it CAN be and the communication between horse and rider on many of the rides stimulated an interest to learn more about this ancient skill and art.
There are hundreds of publications about dressage. It is important for everyone to know that it can improve your horse when done correctly, and it does not matter what breed or skill level the rider or her horse are. The caveat to this statement is that many factors must be taken into consideration when determining the training program, and to realize that many horse and/or riders may be limited at first. Be happy to master the basics, without any undue force placed on either you or your horse.
This month reschooling the western horse for dressage will be discussed, and the next issue will contain information to work with your dressage horse to be able to at least enter some Western classes.
FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN EVALUATING YOUR GOALS
CONFORMATION Remember that especially for the higher levels in dressage, centuries of selective breeding have gone into the result of the class of horse that you see in the dressage ring today, especially at the F.E.I. levels. That said, dressage basics are possible with any breed, just realize that Training to Second Level may be the highest level that your horse may attain. Some breeds commonly used for western riding are sometimes bred a bit “downhill”, with their withers lower than their haunches. They will have more difficulty transferring their weight to their haunches and lightening their forehand, which is desirable for dressage and jumping.
Never forget though, that form does not always follow function. Two years ago I worked with a gray “Bulldog” type Quarter horse that was built downhill. To look at her just standing, you would not consider her to have much of a future in dressage. She moved beautifully, however, belying her build. She competed successfully in training Level is now working at First Level.
MOVEMENT Watch your horse moving at liberty. Is he fairly agile? Is there a “lift” (floating movement) to his trot? Does he canter easily on both leads? Is he fairly straight when you ride him? Does he feel fairly equal whether he is going to the left or to the right? Does he “track up”? When you watch him walk, does his hind hoof land in the track of his front hoof? All of these are improved with correct dressage training, but it is certainly easier for you and your horse if he has some innate natural ability.
INITIAL SCHOOLING
Ground work, such as correct longeing, will help your horse understand his new job. After all, your Western horse has been taught to go in collected gaits, probably undertracking, and quite possibly traveling on his forehand.
If his movement was allowed to be freerer than is sometimes incorrectly seen in the western pleasure show ring, there will be less retraining for you to do.
There is still controversy surrounding the Western pleasure horse. Many people realize the way that they should travel- without undue restraint and displaying a true 4 beat walk, two beat jog, and three beat lope. Unfortunately, at times this is still misunderstood by trainers and judges alike.
When longeing your horse, gradually ask him to move with more freedom and energy. YOUR energy is important for this. The longe whip should never be used harshly. It, along with your voice, just encourages the horse to lengthen. It is used as a light brushing motion occasionally on the haunches as needed. It, like a dressage whip, should be used with the same force as you might strike yourself. (or less !)
One your horse understands that it can move freely at all three gaits, you may start riding him in the same manner. You may well discover that this freer movement is harder to sit, and some longe lessons for you on a correctly moving horse will be in order. I have been riding for many years, and always try to fit in as many longe lessons for myself as time permits to improve my riding.
Another factor to consider is the “bridge” that you need to develop between the back of your horse to the front. Review the “Training Pyramid” that was developed first by the German Riding Schools and now accepted throughout the dressage community:
1. Rhythm and regularity
2. Relaxation
3. Contact (Connection)
4. Impulsion
5. Straightness
6. Collection
With the possible exception of collection, which can destroy the purity of the horse’s gaits if applied too early, consider all of these to be included in your training. The rules are not to be interpreted that you ONLY work on rhythm and that when that is accomplished, you go on to the next step. None of them can be accomplished without the use of the other skills.
Your western show horse may be accustomed to going around a ring on no contact, with a curb bit, and with very little impulsion. There will be little drive from his haunches. If he has been used on some of the recent trail horse, ranch horse, or reining classes, the change should not be as different for him. We have already discussed getting him to push more from behind using longeing and your freer riding. Now this new- found energy has to be “connected”, so that it flows from the engine of the horse through your passive hands to his head and back again- a true circle of energy.
For this he needs to accept your hand and go forward into it. This is not teaching him to pull-it is teaching him to trust his rider’s hands. Initially you may want to use a Bitless Bridle or side pull, so that he understand that he CAN go forward into pressure without any negative reaction. You may have a horse that was ridden Western incorrectly by his former owners. Some riders actually yank on their horse’s mouth to affect a slower gait and lower head carriage. Even though this is terribly abusive, it is still often seen, and you will have the responsibility of teaching your horse that this will no longer happen to him. A bridle without a bit will help with this, before you eventually switch to a snaffle, which is necessary to show in dressage classes in almost all countries.
A common question that I am asked when working with a western rider is that she is afraid of hurting her horse’s mouth. She is only used to riding with a loose rein, and of course abhors the “yank and snatch” that is sometimes seen in the show ring. One of the ways to be certain that YOU are not pulling is to think of the tension of your shoulders, arms, and hands. There should not be any! The image would be that from your shoulders, through your arms to your hands, through the reins to the horse’s mouth, is a garden hose. Water is running through the hose, but it is always moving FORWARD, toward the horse’s mouth. Half-halts, (rebalancing), are accomplished by first the rider’s body, including her legs, then the hands just agreeing with the initial command.
If you have not ridden with dressage as your ultimate goal, I suggest that you take lessons from a qualified dressage instructor on a school horse that has correct movement. Riding is so much feel, and you cannot be expected to know if your horse is starting to move more correctly if you have not felt it.
You will find that correct dressage training will help any horse in general. It is designed to help a horse become more supple, balanced, and stronger, and therefore have more years of usefulness and a good quality of life. I once heard an announcer say in a presentation at an equine event that “dressage“ was the French work for training, and therefore all horse training is dressage. This is patently untrue. Only training which benefits the horse’s body, mind, and emotional well-being should be considered dressage. This definition would eliminate any so-called dressage training, so matter at what level, which eventually harms the horse.
Mitzi Summers
riding disciplines that they have observed, but with which they have not gotten really involved. I have noticed that by watching the World Games held in Kentucky this year, more and more horseman have gotten interested in dressage for their horses. Of course, only the highest levels were demonstrated, but the beauty that it CAN be and the communication between horse and rider on many of the rides stimulated an interest to learn more about this ancient skill and art.
There are hundreds of publications about dressage. It is important for everyone to know that it can improve your horse when done correctly, and it does not matter what breed or skill level the rider or her horse are. The caveat to this statement is that many factors must be taken into consideration when determining the training program, and to realize that many horse and/or riders may be limited at first. Be happy to master the basics, without any undue force placed on either you or your horse.
This month reschooling the western horse for dressage will be discussed, and the next issue will contain information to work with your dressage horse to be able to at least enter some Western classes.
FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN EVALUATING YOUR GOALS
CONFORMATION Remember that especially for the higher levels in dressage, centuries of selective breeding have gone into the result of the class of horse that you see in the dressage ring today, especially at the F.E.I. levels. That said, dressage basics are possible with any breed, just realize that Training to Second Level may be the highest level that your horse may attain. Some breeds commonly used for western riding are sometimes bred a bit “downhill”, with their withers lower than their haunches. They will have more difficulty transferring their weight to their haunches and lightening their forehand, which is desirable for dressage and jumping.
Never forget though, that form does not always follow function. Two years ago I worked with a gray “Bulldog” type Quarter horse that was built downhill. To look at her just standing, you would not consider her to have much of a future in dressage. She moved beautifully, however, belying her build. She competed successfully in training Level is now working at First Level.
MOVEMENT Watch your horse moving at liberty. Is he fairly agile? Is there a “lift” (floating movement) to his trot? Does he canter easily on both leads? Is he fairly straight when you ride him? Does he feel fairly equal whether he is going to the left or to the right? Does he “track up”? When you watch him walk, does his hind hoof land in the track of his front hoof? All of these are improved with correct dressage training, but it is certainly easier for you and your horse if he has some innate natural ability.
INITIAL SCHOOLING
Ground work, such as correct longeing, will help your horse understand his new job. After all, your Western horse has been taught to go in collected gaits, probably undertracking, and quite possibly traveling on his forehand.
If his movement was allowed to be freerer than is sometimes incorrectly seen in the western pleasure show ring, there will be less retraining for you to do.
There is still controversy surrounding the Western pleasure horse. Many people realize the way that they should travel- without undue restraint and displaying a true 4 beat walk, two beat jog, and three beat lope. Unfortunately, at times this is still misunderstood by trainers and judges alike.
When longeing your horse, gradually ask him to move with more freedom and energy. YOUR energy is important for this. The longe whip should never be used harshly. It, along with your voice, just encourages the horse to lengthen. It is used as a light brushing motion occasionally on the haunches as needed. It, like a dressage whip, should be used with the same force as you might strike yourself. (or less !)
One your horse understands that it can move freely at all three gaits, you may start riding him in the same manner. You may well discover that this freer movement is harder to sit, and some longe lessons for you on a correctly moving horse will be in order. I have been riding for many years, and always try to fit in as many longe lessons for myself as time permits to improve my riding.
Another factor to consider is the “bridge” that you need to develop between the back of your horse to the front. Review the “Training Pyramid” that was developed first by the German Riding Schools and now accepted throughout the dressage community:
1. Rhythm and regularity
2. Relaxation
3. Contact (Connection)
4. Impulsion
5. Straightness
6. Collection
With the possible exception of collection, which can destroy the purity of the horse’s gaits if applied too early, consider all of these to be included in your training. The rules are not to be interpreted that you ONLY work on rhythm and that when that is accomplished, you go on to the next step. None of them can be accomplished without the use of the other skills.
Your western show horse may be accustomed to going around a ring on no contact, with a curb bit, and with very little impulsion. There will be little drive from his haunches. If he has been used on some of the recent trail horse, ranch horse, or reining classes, the change should not be as different for him. We have already discussed getting him to push more from behind using longeing and your freer riding. Now this new- found energy has to be “connected”, so that it flows from the engine of the horse through your passive hands to his head and back again- a true circle of energy.
For this he needs to accept your hand and go forward into it. This is not teaching him to pull-it is teaching him to trust his rider’s hands. Initially you may want to use a Bitless Bridle or side pull, so that he understand that he CAN go forward into pressure without any negative reaction. You may have a horse that was ridden Western incorrectly by his former owners. Some riders actually yank on their horse’s mouth to affect a slower gait and lower head carriage. Even though this is terribly abusive, it is still often seen, and you will have the responsibility of teaching your horse that this will no longer happen to him. A bridle without a bit will help with this, before you eventually switch to a snaffle, which is necessary to show in dressage classes in almost all countries.
A common question that I am asked when working with a western rider is that she is afraid of hurting her horse’s mouth. She is only used to riding with a loose rein, and of course abhors the “yank and snatch” that is sometimes seen in the show ring. One of the ways to be certain that YOU are not pulling is to think of the tension of your shoulders, arms, and hands. There should not be any! The image would be that from your shoulders, through your arms to your hands, through the reins to the horse’s mouth, is a garden hose. Water is running through the hose, but it is always moving FORWARD, toward the horse’s mouth. Half-halts, (rebalancing), are accomplished by first the rider’s body, including her legs, then the hands just agreeing with the initial command.
If you have not ridden with dressage as your ultimate goal, I suggest that you take lessons from a qualified dressage instructor on a school horse that has correct movement. Riding is so much feel, and you cannot be expected to know if your horse is starting to move more correctly if you have not felt it.
You will find that correct dressage training will help any horse in general. It is designed to help a horse become more supple, balanced, and stronger, and therefore have more years of usefulness and a good quality of life. I once heard an announcer say in a presentation at an equine event that “dressage“ was the French work for training, and therefore all horse training is dressage. This is patently untrue. Only training which benefits the horse’s body, mind, and emotional well-being should be considered dressage. This definition would eliminate any so-called dressage training, so matter at what level, which eventually harms the horse.
Mitzi Summers
Monday, May 2, 2011
Friesian /Resistance
I recently purchased an 8 yr old gelding who has had training/1 yr of dressage training and trail experience. Previous owner had him in pasture with just an occasional trail ride since initial training. Resistance on the lunge; turning in and ignoring commands to move out. Some bucking and kicking out on lunge. Under saddle has been good up until the other day. He refused to canter when i got him. With lunging i got him to take it consistently but difficult to the right with cross cantering at times now. Have asked him under saddle numerous times now with good results other than cross cantering at start, especially to the right. He has been correcting himself. The other day i rode him in open arena at walk, trot and then sitting trot. At sitting trot he tenses up and anticipates canter work. I allowed him finally to take rt lead canter first and he went into it disunited and off balance. Crow hopped a little but instead of correcting it he continued to crow hop and then proceed to bolt. Saw opening in arena and did crow/hop bolting until he ran me into a fence and i took a very nasty fall. Now i don't trust him and don't know how to proceed. I have been riding for years. Dressage, jumping, western etc. He has a great temperament over all and this was very unexpected. Please advise.
-Marlene
Hello Marlene,
Your query starts off with the word "resistance" . Be careful that you do not carry this into your attitude about how to HELP your horse. I understand that now you are nervous about riding him, which is one of the reasons you need to keep doing ground work until he calmly and quietly can canter easily on both directions on the lunge line.
It is quite likely that his initial training had some inconsistencies and flaws in the progression of helping your horse.First you may want a vet/chiropractor to look at him to double check that physically there is nothing bothering him that is causing this difficulty.Then check out all of your tack and also your riding. I have ridden my whole life and I always look to myself first.
Your horse has "told" you quite clearly that he is having physical difficulty with the canter. It is not on purpose--he did not "make it up" to be resistant. Horse cannot do that. He has a reason for the canter difficulty and now it has led to his being nervous about it and losing his balance and thus your under saddle problem. My email is Summersdressage@aol.com, and my web site is www.mitzisummers.com. There are some articles that may help you on the site.
You need to "double lunge" him, and only canter when he is ready. It should be low key and correct lunge work, which means no chasing and large circles.Your should have calm energy.You may well already be doing this. I am just making sure of it.
Horse often buck and run if they are afraid of losing their balance, which is possible here. I will write more later. Please respond.
-Marlene
Hello Marlene,
Your query starts off with the word "resistance" . Be careful that you do not carry this into your attitude about how to HELP your horse. I understand that now you are nervous about riding him, which is one of the reasons you need to keep doing ground work until he calmly and quietly can canter easily on both directions on the lunge line.
It is quite likely that his initial training had some inconsistencies and flaws in the progression of helping your horse.First you may want a vet/chiropractor to look at him to double check that physically there is nothing bothering him that is causing this difficulty.Then check out all of your tack and also your riding. I have ridden my whole life and I always look to myself first.
Your horse has "told" you quite clearly that he is having physical difficulty with the canter. It is not on purpose--he did not "make it up" to be resistant. Horse cannot do that. He has a reason for the canter difficulty and now it has led to his being nervous about it and losing his balance and thus your under saddle problem. My email is Summersdressage@aol.com, and my web site is www.mitzisummers.com. There are some articles that may help you on the site.
You need to "double lunge" him, and only canter when he is ready. It should be low key and correct lunge work, which means no chasing and large circles.Your should have calm energy.You may well already be doing this. I am just making sure of it.
Horse often buck and run if they are afraid of losing their balance, which is possible here. I will write more later. Please respond.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Falling While Asleep
I have a 11 year old appaloosa mare. Owned her since she was 4 years old. She has many ornery issues and have taken my time to gentle her down. She sways when asleep and sometimes the front legs bend and down she goes on the front side while the back end is still up in the air. I saw her once fall completely down and stay there for a few minutes. Only been ridden maybe 5 times while I've had her. I'd appreciate any comments.
-Merilyn
Dear Merilyn,
This is a problem that you need to consult a veterinarian about. It could be a neurological problem.......but until you find out what is going on you should not ride her.
Please let me know what you find out, but this is not normal behavior.
-Merilyn
Dear Merilyn,
This is a problem that you need to consult a veterinarian about. It could be a neurological problem.......but until you find out what is going on you should not ride her.
Please let me know what you find out, but this is not normal behavior.
Monday, April 18, 2011
My Horse
My horse wont turn right. She is only 6. As far as we know she has had no foot or leg problems. We where wondering if this can be fixed. Thank you very much!
-Piper
Hello Piper,
To be able to give you a more informed answer it would be helpful to have you send me more information through EXPERTS.
I presume this not turning right happens when you are riding her. Here are my questions:
1. Did you just start riding her?
2. Does she have difficulty turning right when you do ground work with her?
3. Does she have any physical/mouth problems that you know of?
4. What kind of tack are you using and have you checked its fit?
5. Who is riding her, and what is their level of expertise? Do they understand how to use their aids correctly (seat, legs, and then VERY LITTLE hand), in order to guide her?
6. You mention that as far as you know she has not foot or leg problems, but if this was not a problem before, then SOMETHING has caused a change. Horses have good reasons for what they do. It could be a back-mouth problem.
We need to determine the WHY if possible before we proceed.
Thank you and I will anxiously await more information.
Mitzi Summers
Summersdressage@aol.com
www.MitziSummers.com
-Piper
Hello Piper,
To be able to give you a more informed answer it would be helpful to have you send me more information through EXPERTS.
I presume this not turning right happens when you are riding her. Here are my questions:
1. Did you just start riding her?
2. Does she have difficulty turning right when you do ground work with her?
3. Does she have any physical/mouth problems that you know of?
4. What kind of tack are you using and have you checked its fit?
5. Who is riding her, and what is their level of expertise? Do they understand how to use their aids correctly (seat, legs, and then VERY LITTLE hand), in order to guide her?
6. You mention that as far as you know she has not foot or leg problems, but if this was not a problem before, then SOMETHING has caused a change. Horses have good reasons for what they do. It could be a back-mouth problem.
We need to determine the WHY if possible before we proceed.
Thank you and I will anxiously await more information.
Mitzi Summers
Summersdressage@aol.com
www.MitziSummers.com
Monday, April 11, 2011
RESCHOOLING YOUR WESTERN HORSE FOR DRESSAGE
(And Vice Versa)
By Mitzi Summers
Spring is on its way-really it is, and with the advent of good weather riders again get motivated to improve their riding and their horses, and may well be inspired to delve into riding disciplines that they have observed, but with which they have not gotten really involved. I have noticed that by watching the World Games held in Kentucky this year, more and more horseman have gotten interested in dressage for their horses. Of course, only the highest levels were demonstrated, but the beauty that it CAN be and the communication between horse and rider on many of the rides stimulated an interest to learn more about this ancient skill and art.
There are hundreds of publications about dressage. It is important for everyone to know that it can improve your horse when done correctly, and it does not matter what breed or skill level the rider or her horse are. The caveat to this statement is that many factors must be taken into consideration when determining the training program, and to realize that many horse and/or riders may be limited at first. Be happy to master the basics, without any undue force placed on either you or your horse. This month reschooling the western horse for dressage will be discussed, and the next issue will contain information to work with your dressage horse to be able to at least enter some Western classes.
FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN EVALUATING YOUR GOALS
CONFORMATION Remember that especially for the higher levels in dressage, centuries of selective breeding have gone into the result of the class of horse that you see in the dressage ring today, especially at the F.E.I. levels. That said, dressage basics are possible with any breed, just realize that Training to Second Level may be the highest
level that your horse may attain. Some breeds commonly used for western riding are sometimes bred a bit “downhill”, with their withers lower than their haunches. They will have more difficulty transferring their weight to their haunches and lightening their forehand, which is desirable for dressage and jumping.
Never forget though, that form does not always follow function. Two years ago I worked with a gray “Bulldog” type Quarter horse that was built downhill. To look at her just standing, you would not consider her to have much of a future in dressage. She moved beautifully, however, belying her build. She competed successfully in training Level is now working at First Level.
MOVEMENT Watch your horse moving at liberty. Is he fairly agile? Is there a “lift” (floating movement) to his trot? Does he canter easily on both leads? Is he fairly straight when you ride him? Does he feel fairly equal whether he is going to the left or to the right? Does he “track up”? When you watch him walk, does his hind hoof land in the track of his front hoof? All of these are improved with correct dressage training, but it is certainly easier for you and your horse if he has some innate natural ability.
INITIAL SCHOOLING
Ground work, such as correct longeing, will help your horse understand his new job. After all, your Western horse has been taught to go in collected gaits, probably undertracking, and quite possibly traveling on his forehand.
If his movement was allowed to be freerer than is sometimes incorrectly seen in the western pleasure show ring, there will be less retraining for you to do. There is still controversy surrounding the Western pleasure horse. Many people realize the way that they should travel- without undue restraint and displaying a true 4 beat walk, two beat jog, and three beat lope. Unfortunately, at times this is still misunderstood by trainers and judges alike. When longeing your horse, gradually ask him to move with more freedom and energy.
YOUR energy is important for this. The longe whip should never be used harshly. It, along with your voice, just encourages the horse to lengthen. It is used as a light brushing motion occasionally on the haunches as needed. It, like a dressage whip, should be used with the same force as you might strike yourself. (or less !)
One your horse understands that it can move freely at all three gaits, you may start riding him in the same manner. You may well discover that this freer movement is harder to sit, and some longe lessons for you on a correctly moving horse will be in order. I have been riding for many years, and always try to fit in as many longe lessons for myself as time permits to improve my riding.
Another factor to consider is the “bridge” that you need to develop between the back of your horse to the front. Review the “Training Pyramid” that was developed first by the German Riding Schools and now accepted throughout the dressage community:
1. Rhythm and regularity
2. Relaxation
3. Contact (Connection)
4. Impulsion
5. Straightness
6. Collection
With the possible exception of collection, which can destroy the purity of the horse’s gaits if applied too early, consider all of these to be included in your training. The rules are not to be interpreted that you ONLY work on rhythm and that when that is accomplished, you go on to the next step. None of them can be accomplished without the use of the other skills.
Your western show horse may be accustomed to going around a ring on no contact, with a curb bit, and with very little impulsion. There will be little drive from his haunches. If he has been used on some of the recent trail horse, ranch horse, or reining classes, the change should not be as different for him. We have already discussed getting him to push more from behind using longeing and your freer riding. Now this new- found energy has to be “connected”, so that it flows from the engine of the horse through your passive hands to his head and back again- a true circle of energy. For this he needs to
accept your hand and go forward into it. This is not teaching him to pull-it is teaching him to trust his rider’s hands.
Initially you may want to use a Bitless Bridle or side pull, so that he understand that he CAN go forward into pressure without any negative reaction. You may have a horse that was ridden Western incorrectly by his former owners. Some riders actually yank on their horse’s mouth to affect a slower gait and lower head carriage. Even though this is terribly abusive, it is still often seen, and you will have the responsibility of teaching your horse that this will no longer happen to him. A bridle without a bit will help with this, before you eventually switch to a snaffle, which is necessary to show in dressage classes in almost all countries.
A common question that I am asked when working with a western rider is that she is afraid of hurting her horse’s mouth. She is only used to riding with a loose rein, and of course abhors the “yank and snatch” that is sometimes seen in the show ring. One of the ways to be certain that YOU are not pulling is to think of the tension of your shoulders, arms, and hands. There should not be any! The image would be that from your shoulders, through your arms to your hands, through the reins to the horse’s mouth, is a garden hose. Water is running through the hose, but it is always moving FORWARD, toward the horse’s mouth. Half-halts, (rebalancing), are accomplished by first the rider’s body, including her legs, then the hands just agreeing with the initial command.
If you have not ridden with dressage as your ultimate goal, I suggest that you take lessons from a qualified dressage instructor on a school horse that has correct movement.Riding is so much feel, and you cannot be expected to know if your horse is starting to move more correctly if you have not felt it.
You will find that correct dressage training will help any horse in general. It is designed to help a horse become more supple, balanced, and stronger, and therefore have more years of usefulness and a good quality of life. I once heard an announcer say in a presentation at an equine event that “dressage“ was the French work for training, and therefore all horse training is dressage. This is patently untrue. Only training which benefits the horse’s body, mind, and emotional well-being should be considered dressage. This definition would eliminate any so-called dressage training, so matter at what level, which eventually harms the horse.
Mitzi Summers
www.MitziSummers
SummersDressage@aol.com
(And Vice Versa)
By Mitzi Summers
Spring is on its way-really it is, and with the advent of good weather riders again get motivated to improve their riding and their horses, and may well be inspired to delve into riding disciplines that they have observed, but with which they have not gotten really involved. I have noticed that by watching the World Games held in Kentucky this year, more and more horseman have gotten interested in dressage for their horses. Of course, only the highest levels were demonstrated, but the beauty that it CAN be and the communication between horse and rider on many of the rides stimulated an interest to learn more about this ancient skill and art.
There are hundreds of publications about dressage. It is important for everyone to know that it can improve your horse when done correctly, and it does not matter what breed or skill level the rider or her horse are. The caveat to this statement is that many factors must be taken into consideration when determining the training program, and to realize that many horse and/or riders may be limited at first. Be happy to master the basics, without any undue force placed on either you or your horse. This month reschooling the western horse for dressage will be discussed, and the next issue will contain information to work with your dressage horse to be able to at least enter some Western classes.
FACTORS TO CONSIDER WHEN EVALUATING YOUR GOALS
CONFORMATION Remember that especially for the higher levels in dressage, centuries of selective breeding have gone into the result of the class of horse that you see in the dressage ring today, especially at the F.E.I. levels. That said, dressage basics are possible with any breed, just realize that Training to Second Level may be the highest
level that your horse may attain. Some breeds commonly used for western riding are sometimes bred a bit “downhill”, with their withers lower than their haunches. They will have more difficulty transferring their weight to their haunches and lightening their forehand, which is desirable for dressage and jumping.
Never forget though, that form does not always follow function. Two years ago I worked with a gray “Bulldog” type Quarter horse that was built downhill. To look at her just standing, you would not consider her to have much of a future in dressage. She moved beautifully, however, belying her build. She competed successfully in training Level is now working at First Level.
MOVEMENT Watch your horse moving at liberty. Is he fairly agile? Is there a “lift” (floating movement) to his trot? Does he canter easily on both leads? Is he fairly straight when you ride him? Does he feel fairly equal whether he is going to the left or to the right? Does he “track up”? When you watch him walk, does his hind hoof land in the track of his front hoof? All of these are improved with correct dressage training, but it is certainly easier for you and your horse if he has some innate natural ability.
INITIAL SCHOOLING
Ground work, such as correct longeing, will help your horse understand his new job. After all, your Western horse has been taught to go in collected gaits, probably undertracking, and quite possibly traveling on his forehand.
If his movement was allowed to be freerer than is sometimes incorrectly seen in the western pleasure show ring, there will be less retraining for you to do. There is still controversy surrounding the Western pleasure horse. Many people realize the way that they should travel- without undue restraint and displaying a true 4 beat walk, two beat jog, and three beat lope. Unfortunately, at times this is still misunderstood by trainers and judges alike. When longeing your horse, gradually ask him to move with more freedom and energy.
YOUR energy is important for this. The longe whip should never be used harshly. It, along with your voice, just encourages the horse to lengthen. It is used as a light brushing motion occasionally on the haunches as needed. It, like a dressage whip, should be used with the same force as you might strike yourself. (or less !)
One your horse understands that it can move freely at all three gaits, you may start riding him in the same manner. You may well discover that this freer movement is harder to sit, and some longe lessons for you on a correctly moving horse will be in order. I have been riding for many years, and always try to fit in as many longe lessons for myself as time permits to improve my riding.
Another factor to consider is the “bridge” that you need to develop between the back of your horse to the front. Review the “Training Pyramid” that was developed first by the German Riding Schools and now accepted throughout the dressage community:
1. Rhythm and regularity
2. Relaxation
3. Contact (Connection)
4. Impulsion
5. Straightness
6. Collection
With the possible exception of collection, which can destroy the purity of the horse’s gaits if applied too early, consider all of these to be included in your training. The rules are not to be interpreted that you ONLY work on rhythm and that when that is accomplished, you go on to the next step. None of them can be accomplished without the use of the other skills.
Your western show horse may be accustomed to going around a ring on no contact, with a curb bit, and with very little impulsion. There will be little drive from his haunches. If he has been used on some of the recent trail horse, ranch horse, or reining classes, the change should not be as different for him. We have already discussed getting him to push more from behind using longeing and your freer riding. Now this new- found energy has to be “connected”, so that it flows from the engine of the horse through your passive hands to his head and back again- a true circle of energy. For this he needs to
accept your hand and go forward into it. This is not teaching him to pull-it is teaching him to trust his rider’s hands.
Initially you may want to use a Bitless Bridle or side pull, so that he understand that he CAN go forward into pressure without any negative reaction. You may have a horse that was ridden Western incorrectly by his former owners. Some riders actually yank on their horse’s mouth to affect a slower gait and lower head carriage. Even though this is terribly abusive, it is still often seen, and you will have the responsibility of teaching your horse that this will no longer happen to him. A bridle without a bit will help with this, before you eventually switch to a snaffle, which is necessary to show in dressage classes in almost all countries.
A common question that I am asked when working with a western rider is that she is afraid of hurting her horse’s mouth. She is only used to riding with a loose rein, and of course abhors the “yank and snatch” that is sometimes seen in the show ring. One of the ways to be certain that YOU are not pulling is to think of the tension of your shoulders, arms, and hands. There should not be any! The image would be that from your shoulders, through your arms to your hands, through the reins to the horse’s mouth, is a garden hose. Water is running through the hose, but it is always moving FORWARD, toward the horse’s mouth. Half-halts, (rebalancing), are accomplished by first the rider’s body, including her legs, then the hands just agreeing with the initial command.
If you have not ridden with dressage as your ultimate goal, I suggest that you take lessons from a qualified dressage instructor on a school horse that has correct movement.Riding is so much feel, and you cannot be expected to know if your horse is starting to move more correctly if you have not felt it.
You will find that correct dressage training will help any horse in general. It is designed to help a horse become more supple, balanced, and stronger, and therefore have more years of usefulness and a good quality of life. I once heard an announcer say in a presentation at an equine event that “dressage“ was the French work for training, and therefore all horse training is dressage. This is patently untrue. Only training which benefits the horse’s body, mind, and emotional well-being should be considered dressage. This definition would eliminate any so-called dressage training, so matter at what level, which eventually harms the horse.
Mitzi Summers
www.MitziSummers
SummersDressage@aol.com
Monday, April 4, 2011
Traumatized horse
I just purchased my first horse as an adult (had 4 as a child). I purchased an 8 year old gelding and began riding English (grew up riding western). I live on a nature preserve with lots of live oak trees, deer, birds and alligators. I rode my horse for 2 months with no problems. He never spooked and was very responsive. However, we came across a pond while walking on a raised dike (water on both sides). A large egret flew out of the pond practically in my horse's face. He spun and lost his footing on the dike. I quickly realized he was falling in and I threw my reins, stirrups and pushed myself off his back end. I pushed so hard that I knocked myself unconscious. I awoke on my own, but later found that my horse had been located a bit up the road covered in mud. He apparently did fall in an alligator hole and probably had a struggle in the mud to get out. He has been a nervous wreck since (as have I). I am trying to stay calm and not show my concern. However, he is not spinning and bolting (or at least trying to) every time I ride him. I have even tried walking him on the ground in areas that are now seeming to frighten him and he is getting very tense, snorting and trying to pull away. I am going to continue to work on this but it has been 1 month and I do not feel safe even riding him to our round pen. Is there anything else I can do besides daily ground work and trying not to be stressed myself. I am afraid I may need to give him away. Even my trainer has noticed his tension and anxiety but she seems a lot braver than I am. I am afraid he will bolt through the woods and I won't fair so well.... How long should I give him and I to recover before giving up???
-Kimberly
Hello Kimberly,
I am sorry about what happened. I hope you can think about how you can help your horse to overcome his fear and you can rehabilitate him.....do a good deed to help him even if it means the original plans that you had for him when you bought him will have to change for a while.
YOUR energy needs to be very laid back and low when you work with him. Be certain that you are working with someone with him that recognizes that you need to have very low expectations of him right now to regain his confidence. He will be relying on you.
Round Pen only if it is laid back and calm...like good longing is. There should be no feeling of chasing him at all.I think you should do T.E.A.M. ground work with him. Linda Tellington Jones wrote the books, and I have used the system successfully for years. She also has DVDS. You need to start over with your horse and gain his trust and confidence on the ground first.
Be careful of "natural horsemanship" techniques if they are at all rough. There are good people out there, but there are other people who would advise such really incorrect things for your horse such as using a plastic bag on the end of a stick, high energy round penning, even throwing him.He is an individual, and you should do NOTHING that would upset him any more.
I also recommend that you read the horse chapters on horses in books that Dr. Temple Grandin writes. ANIMALS IN TRANSITION and her latest book. It will help you understand the thought processes of what your horse is going through.
If you visit my web site there are articles that will spell out actual things you can do. The article RETRAINING A THOROUGHBRED, gives specific directions on ground work to start out with.
Please email me again by EXPERTS, or my email summersdressage@aol.com. My website is www.MitziSummers.com
I do not want you to get hurt, so do a little at a time and I would not ride him until you feel he is trusting you and relaxing. I hope you decide not to sell him.....there are so many people out there who would just make him worse and he needs all the love you can give him.
Mitzi Summers
-Kimberly
Hello Kimberly,
I am sorry about what happened. I hope you can think about how you can help your horse to overcome his fear and you can rehabilitate him.....do a good deed to help him even if it means the original plans that you had for him when you bought him will have to change for a while.
YOUR energy needs to be very laid back and low when you work with him. Be certain that you are working with someone with him that recognizes that you need to have very low expectations of him right now to regain his confidence. He will be relying on you.
Round Pen only if it is laid back and calm...like good longing is. There should be no feeling of chasing him at all.I think you should do T.E.A.M. ground work with him. Linda Tellington Jones wrote the books, and I have used the system successfully for years. She also has DVDS. You need to start over with your horse and gain his trust and confidence on the ground first.
Be careful of "natural horsemanship" techniques if they are at all rough. There are good people out there, but there are other people who would advise such really incorrect things for your horse such as using a plastic bag on the end of a stick, high energy round penning, even throwing him.He is an individual, and you should do NOTHING that would upset him any more.
I also recommend that you read the horse chapters on horses in books that Dr. Temple Grandin writes. ANIMALS IN TRANSITION and her latest book. It will help you understand the thought processes of what your horse is going through.
If you visit my web site there are articles that will spell out actual things you can do. The article RETRAINING A THOROUGHBRED, gives specific directions on ground work to start out with.
Please email me again by EXPERTS, or my email summersdressage@aol.com. My website is www.MitziSummers.com
I do not want you to get hurt, so do a little at a time and I would not ride him until you feel he is trusting you and relaxing. I hope you decide not to sell him.....there are so many people out there who would just make him worse and he needs all the love you can give him.
Mitzi Summers
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Starting Baby
Q:
I have a 2 and a half year old that I am just starting to get on. I have taken the time to mess with the tack, wiggle everything up there. Mount and dismount from each side and he seems okay with the weight and the fact that someone is on his back. I've tried asking him to walk and halt and move off the pressure of my leg. I'm not exactly sure if I'm asking correctly or if there is a certain way to go about this. Trying my hardest to ask clearly, squeezing and increasing pressure for forward motion until he responds with the correct action. He is then praised and then asked something else. Is there anything else I can do? Are there any exercises we might find beneficial?
A:
I start all my horses out by first having them longing correctly. Quietly responding to my voice and body language they walk, trot, and when they are old enough, canter by command. I describe this in an article on my website, www.MitziSummers.com.
Then I have a person doing just what you have done with the saddle and getting on and getting off. Your goal is to make the pressure on the horse's side from your legs become a reflex to go forward. They feel it and just go forward, but of course this has to be taught.
In the beginning you can have a person or you on the horse and when you give a slight hug with your legs and say "walk on" the person simply starts the horse forward leading it. When the horse goes forward you praise this and repeat. In a very short time the horse understands that leg pressure and no restraint on the rein means to go forward. You may want to start out with a Bitless bridle. When it seems safe to not lead the horse anymore, this can follow through to work on the lunge. The rider will hug with her legs and saw "walk", and if the horse does not understand, the person longing reinforces with her voice and maybe shows the horse the lunge whip. The lunge whip is NEVER used to scare or punish..just an additional aid- an extension of your arm.
If at any time it seems that the horse does not understand, just go back to the beginning, even the leading. I once saw a trainer actually whip the horse in the beginning when the horse did not understand. This is not correct and is abusive.Make sure you never KICK the horse to go forward. Check your position and make certain that all of your aids are telling the horse the same thing.Feel free to write again.
I have a 2 and a half year old that I am just starting to get on. I have taken the time to mess with the tack, wiggle everything up there. Mount and dismount from each side and he seems okay with the weight and the fact that someone is on his back. I've tried asking him to walk and halt and move off the pressure of my leg. I'm not exactly sure if I'm asking correctly or if there is a certain way to go about this. Trying my hardest to ask clearly, squeezing and increasing pressure for forward motion until he responds with the correct action. He is then praised and then asked something else. Is there anything else I can do? Are there any exercises we might find beneficial?
A:
I start all my horses out by first having them longing correctly. Quietly responding to my voice and body language they walk, trot, and when they are old enough, canter by command. I describe this in an article on my website, www.MitziSummers.com.
Then I have a person doing just what you have done with the saddle and getting on and getting off. Your goal is to make the pressure on the horse's side from your legs become a reflex to go forward. They feel it and just go forward, but of course this has to be taught.
In the beginning you can have a person or you on the horse and when you give a slight hug with your legs and say "walk on" the person simply starts the horse forward leading it. When the horse goes forward you praise this and repeat. In a very short time the horse understands that leg pressure and no restraint on the rein means to go forward. You may want to start out with a Bitless bridle. When it seems safe to not lead the horse anymore, this can follow through to work on the lunge. The rider will hug with her legs and saw "walk", and if the horse does not understand, the person longing reinforces with her voice and maybe shows the horse the lunge whip. The lunge whip is NEVER used to scare or punish..just an additional aid- an extension of your arm.
If at any time it seems that the horse does not understand, just go back to the beginning, even the leading. I once saw a trainer actually whip the horse in the beginning when the horse did not understand. This is not correct and is abusive.Make sure you never KICK the horse to go forward. Check your position and make certain that all of your aids are telling the horse the same thing.Feel free to write again.
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
breaking my western horse to ride english
I have a paint named Sasha that we bought a few months ago, she was started as a yearling showing on lunge line, they then broke her to ride western. she is a very calm and mannerful horse but it is hard to get her going at a trot or canter, we have to use a quirt, but she knows her stuff and is a very pleasant ride, I first learned how to ride western, and now I am working with my trainer and am riding english, my other horse rides english but he is green and I would like a more level headed horse to ride, so I would like to start sasha english, do you have any tips or any specific steps I should take to make mine and her english riding experience a good one?
-Jamie
Hello Jamie,
Thank you for writing to "Experts" and being concerned about training your horse correctly.
The beginning training of a horse should be able to be the same, whether the final result for the horse's "specialty" is to be English or Western.The fundamentals are the same at first.You have no way of knowing exactly how your horse was trained Western. You have to give your horse every benefit of the doubt...if he does not understand something, it is not his fault, and you need to add what he does not know and teach him in a kind, consistent manner.
It sounds as if he does not recognize the rider's leg as an automatic, "Oh, she hugged me with her leg, that means I go forward." response. As you know, a horse has to be taught to go"in front of a rider's leg". Possibly the people training him used harsh leg cues. Some incorrect western trainers even "spur train" their horses to go SLOWER when they feel a spur.
You need to start him over again in this respect-retraining. First of all teach him to lunge correctly. This is a learned skill. You may need to learn this from someone. Make certain that they do it correctly-that the horse learns that lungeing is a calming, suppling experience-not being chased around. The use of your voice is important. There are other replys I have written in HORSE EXPERTS that you might want to read to help in this.
Then have an expert lunge you ON your horse.When they say "walk, or trot", you will HUG, not kick, your horse with your calf and use your voice. Then when he goes forward, you will generously praise him.His learning to go forward will become a reflex.
You mention using a quirt.If a trained horse does not understand about going forward, first of all as a rider you need to be certain that everything YOU are doing is correct and that he is not uncomfortable, i.e. saddle fit.Then you could use a dressage whip lightly behind your leg-about as hard as you would hit your own face. If a horse does not go forward from a whip it is a danger sign that he needs more correct schooling-back to basics. If you hit him and he barely responds, NOT DO THAT AGAIN..you have to go back to the basics. These things, as you know, are not the fault of the horse, any more thasn it is a child's fault if they do not understand how to multiply numbers right away. It just needs to be explained, maybe in different ways,until your horse willingly and readily goes forward from your leg. Let me know about your progress.
1. Teach him to lunge correctly
2. Make certain that you are using the right aids and that you are clear in your "horse language".
3. Do not use spurs. Practice just a hug from your leg.The use of your voice, "walk, Tr.ot! ....good boy".
4. Have an experienced person lunge you on him. That way two people are explaining what you want from him.
5. Further training at first is just the same basics. You will encourage free moment from him, not collectecd gaits at first as you would if you were training him for western later on.
You can write again.I have articles on my website, www.MitziSummers.com
and my regular email address is Summersdressage@aol.com.or write EXPERTS .
-Jamie
Hello Jamie,
Thank you for writing to "Experts" and being concerned about training your horse correctly.
The beginning training of a horse should be able to be the same, whether the final result for the horse's "specialty" is to be English or Western.The fundamentals are the same at first.You have no way of knowing exactly how your horse was trained Western. You have to give your horse every benefit of the doubt...if he does not understand something, it is not his fault, and you need to add what he does not know and teach him in a kind, consistent manner.
It sounds as if he does not recognize the rider's leg as an automatic, "Oh, she hugged me with her leg, that means I go forward." response. As you know, a horse has to be taught to go"in front of a rider's leg". Possibly the people training him used harsh leg cues. Some incorrect western trainers even "spur train" their horses to go SLOWER when they feel a spur.
You need to start him over again in this respect-retraining. First of all teach him to lunge correctly. This is a learned skill. You may need to learn this from someone. Make certain that they do it correctly-that the horse learns that lungeing is a calming, suppling experience-not being chased around. The use of your voice is important. There are other replys I have written in HORSE EXPERTS that you might want to read to help in this.
Then have an expert lunge you ON your horse.When they say "walk, or trot", you will HUG, not kick, your horse with your calf and use your voice. Then when he goes forward, you will generously praise him.His learning to go forward will become a reflex.
You mention using a quirt.If a trained horse does not understand about going forward, first of all as a rider you need to be certain that everything YOU are doing is correct and that he is not uncomfortable, i.e. saddle fit.Then you could use a dressage whip lightly behind your leg-about as hard as you would hit your own face. If a horse does not go forward from a whip it is a danger sign that he needs more correct schooling-back to basics. If you hit him and he barely responds, NOT DO THAT AGAIN..you have to go back to the basics. These things, as you know, are not the fault of the horse, any more thasn it is a child's fault if they do not understand how to multiply numbers right away. It just needs to be explained, maybe in different ways,until your horse willingly and readily goes forward from your leg. Let me know about your progress.
1. Teach him to lunge correctly
2. Make certain that you are using the right aids and that you are clear in your "horse language".
3. Do not use spurs. Practice just a hug from your leg.The use of your voice, "walk, Tr.ot! ....good boy".
4. Have an experienced person lunge you on him. That way two people are explaining what you want from him.
5. Further training at first is just the same basics. You will encourage free moment from him, not collectecd gaits at first as you would if you were training him for western later on.
You can write again.I have articles on my website, www.MitziSummers.com
and my regular email address is Summersdressage@aol.com.or write EXPERTS .
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
TB filly that bulges out to fence and refuses to move
I have a three year old TB filly that is off the track, on the ground she is sweet and respectful, not spooky, and tries to please.But when I get on her she is impossible to ride, all she does it bulge sideways (feels like she is going to fall over) and goes to the fence (dragging herself basically, and does the classic rub riders leg against fence. I have barb-wire fences, my arena has no fence and is in a barb wire paddock. Unlike most horses, no matter how much I kick , she refuses to move, just presses into the fence harder, and WILL NOT move, I have tried blocking one side using both reins and outside leg, but it does not have any effect on her, she seems to completely ignore everything. When she presses into the fence I know it has got to hurt her too. I have sat out consistently tapping her with a dressage whip and my heel as she does this for about 15 minutes, and she still wouldn't move (except into the fence even more). I have lunged her and what not but she is VERY hard to get to go, she does OK overall. I have no idea what to do, and everyone I have talked to that has ex-racers has never had this problem, and she isn't my first ex-racer. She is physically sound. I know the farm she was from and I know that they do very little if any groundwork, and everyone tells me to start from scratch, and that is what I have done already, I just can't train this habit out of her and continue with her training.
-Karmi
Hello Karmi,
First of all, it is very important not to be influenced by anyone telling you that she should know better, or that other TBs they have had did not have this problem. Every horse has different experiences and responds differently to these experiences..(as you obviously already realize).
She clearly just has no clue, and remember that this is in no way HER fault....now you have the responsibility and it will be a really interesting experience on learning how to help her.
She does not seem to understand the basic aids, and going forward or away from leg pressure is not a reflex with her, or she once knew it and someone confused her.
I strongly recommend that you purchase some Linda Tellington Jones
DVDS, and one of her Complete Training books. I think you should start right off from the beginning with the leading techniques. It is not a longer process or a waste of time and you will get results as the mare starts to understand.
The second leading position...what Linda calls the Dingo, will get the mare to start learning the basics all over again. (By the way, I get no kickback from recommending her). LOL...I do not recommend round penning with your mare....or some of the forceful Natural Horsemanship methods. Some are fine, but she has enough to figure out. I also think you should try using a Bitless Bridle so she will respond from direct pressure from all over her head, not just her mouth. I will be happy to help you more....my email is
Summersdressage@aol.com and my website, www.MitziSummers.com
I am more than willing to go step by step with you...
-Karmi
Hello Karmi,
First of all, it is very important not to be influenced by anyone telling you that she should know better, or that other TBs they have had did not have this problem. Every horse has different experiences and responds differently to these experiences..(as you obviously already realize).
She clearly just has no clue, and remember that this is in no way HER fault....now you have the responsibility and it will be a really interesting experience on learning how to help her.
She does not seem to understand the basic aids, and going forward or away from leg pressure is not a reflex with her, or she once knew it and someone confused her.
I strongly recommend that you purchase some Linda Tellington Jones
DVDS, and one of her Complete Training books. I think you should start right off from the beginning with the leading techniques. It is not a longer process or a waste of time and you will get results as the mare starts to understand.
The second leading position...what Linda calls the Dingo, will get the mare to start learning the basics all over again. (By the way, I get no kickback from recommending her). LOL...I do not recommend round penning with your mare....or some of the forceful Natural Horsemanship methods. Some are fine, but she has enough to figure out. I also think you should try using a Bitless Bridle so she will respond from direct pressure from all over her head, not just her mouth. I will be happy to help you more....my email is
Summersdressage@aol.com and my website, www.MitziSummers.com
I am more than willing to go step by step with you...
Saturday, March 12, 2011
rearing, bad behavior
Q:
My horse has always been a little hot. Always had a tendency to rear. He recently reared and went over, not on top of me but he fell and so did I. I got right back on and he rode pretty well. How do I get him to calm down? He is more anxious every time that I get him out. I've ridden him 3 times and he just doesn't settle. Should I put a martingale or a tie down on him so I feel more secure?
A:
Rearing is a very serious problem. You say that he always has this tendency. You have to first make certain that the cause is not physical.Does he have a sore back? Does his saddle fit? Is the bit too harsh? Are you pulling on his mouth at all? Is he frightened at whatever you are doing?
These factors all have to be determined before you address it as a behavioral problem.
If it is absolutely a learned behavioral problem it has to be handled by an expert who will be assertive with the horse. They have to understand what they are doing or they will make it worse.
The horse needs to be sent FORWARD if he rears. Rearing is a lack of going forward from the rider's leg. Yanking him around in tight circles (unless you are doing it for survival), is not as effective- he needs to go forward.
If he is a confirmed rearer, who has learned to use it as a resistance, it may well be that you should not keep him, and you MUST warn any potential buyers that he rears. It is one of the worst vices, but it often IS due to a physical reason.....remember harsh hands can be one of them.
You are welcome to write back and tell me more. Answer on this venue, or Summersdressage@aol.com, www.MitziSummers.com
My horse has always been a little hot. Always had a tendency to rear. He recently reared and went over, not on top of me but he fell and so did I. I got right back on and he rode pretty well. How do I get him to calm down? He is more anxious every time that I get him out. I've ridden him 3 times and he just doesn't settle. Should I put a martingale or a tie down on him so I feel more secure?
A:
Rearing is a very serious problem. You say that he always has this tendency. You have to first make certain that the cause is not physical.Does he have a sore back? Does his saddle fit? Is the bit too harsh? Are you pulling on his mouth at all? Is he frightened at whatever you are doing?
These factors all have to be determined before you address it as a behavioral problem.
If it is absolutely a learned behavioral problem it has to be handled by an expert who will be assertive with the horse. They have to understand what they are doing or they will make it worse.
The horse needs to be sent FORWARD if he rears. Rearing is a lack of going forward from the rider's leg. Yanking him around in tight circles (unless you are doing it for survival), is not as effective- he needs to go forward.
If he is a confirmed rearer, who has learned to use it as a resistance, it may well be that you should not keep him, and you MUST warn any potential buyers that he rears. It is one of the worst vices, but it often IS due to a physical reason.....remember harsh hands can be one of them.
You are welcome to write back and tell me more. Answer on this venue, or Summersdressage@aol.com, www.MitziSummers.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
